Oldest Oven of Calcutta: A Fight For Identity In a Colonial World

Ajmeri’s Oven In Action [Photo by Syed Shakir Ali Al Hossaini]

The colonial hangover made us believe that the oldest bakery in Calcutta has to be owned by some “phirangi”. A quick Google search shows the oldest bakery in Kolkata is Nahoum & Sons (1902). But is it for a fact? Streets of Calcutta rejects this claim, and the streets lead us to Ajmeri Bakery in Central Calcutta. A 200-year-old bakery owned by a Muslim Indian is still breathing breads and biscuits even after eight generations. Even if it does not dominate search results or tourist guides, its legacy lives on in the people who know it, visit it, and pass down its story. In an era where tradition is often overshadowed by convenience, Ajmeri Bakery reminds us that some flavours and some histories are timeless.

In a city where every street seems to whisper stories of the past, few places embody Kolkata’s layered history as vividly as Ajmeri Bakery. Tucked away in the older quarters of Calcutta, this humble establishment is not just a bakery; it is a testament to resilience, migration, colonial encounters, and the enduring spirit of small entrepreneurs. Said to have originated in the 19th century, Ajmeri Bakery’s story begins with a man named Jiban Sheikh, whose life journey reflects both hardship and determination.

The origins of Ajmeri Bakery are rooted in a deeply human story. Jiban Sheikh worked at a British-owned bakery during colonial rule. A time when Indian workers were often subjected to harsh conditions and rigid expectations. According to oral histories, a turning point came when he failed to meet a baking deadline due to illness. Instead of compassion, he was met with violence and humiliation. Leaving behind his job, Jiban Sheikh chose dignity over dependency. With limited resources but immense determination, he began baking on the streets of Calcutta. Using handmade ovens constructed from cobblestones, he recreated what he had learned in colonial kitchens, but now on his own terms.

These ovens, crude yet effective, became the foundation of what would eventually grow into one of the city’s oldest surviving bakeries. The present owner Sheikh Ajizur Rehman  shares in his interview, “Jiban Sheikh tokhon rastar pashe pathor diye bhati baniye pauruti biscoot banano arombho korlo. Cobblestone cheno? Cobblestone er bhati baniye tarpor jaa banato oigulo British school gulor dorjar baire theke dupure oi student der bikri korto.”

Fresh Out Of Oven [Photo by Syed Shakir Ali Al Hossaini]

In those early days, Jiban Sheikh’s bakery was not a shop but a roadside operation. He would bake bread and simple cakes and sell them outside English-medium schools in Calcutta. This was a strategic choice. British institutions and Anglo-Indian communities had a growing appetite for baked goods, and Sheikh understood the demand. His products were simple yet distinctive. Unlike large colonial bakeries, his goods carried a handmade authenticity, something that resonated with both locals and Europeans. Over time, his roadside venture began attracting a loyal customer base. The aroma of freshly baked Bakarkhani bread, wafting through the streets, became his advertisement. This period also reflects a broader culinary transition in Calcutta. As the city evolved under colonial influence, European-style baking began blending with local tastes. Ajmeri Bakery would later become one of the rare spaces where this fusion survived almost unchanged for generations.

Ajizur adds, “Prothome bakeryr kono naam chilo na. Tarpor Jiban Sheikh Ajmer ghurte gyalo, phire eshe naam rakhlo Ajmeri Bakery. Shei thekei ei naam.” The name “Ajmeri Bakery” itself carries a story of travel and transformation. At some point in his life, Jiban Sheikh visited Ajmer, a historic city known for its spiritual and cultural significance. The visit left a deep impression on him. In honour of that journey, he named his growing enterprise “Ajmeri Bakery.” This naming was more than symbolic. It reflected the fluid identities of traders and craftsmen in colonial India. Movement between regions often shaped businesses, and names became markers of memory, aspiration, or spiritual connection.

Ajmeri’s: Taste Of Europe [Photo by Syed Shakir Ali Al Hossaini]

Over time, the modest roadside operation evolved into a permanent establishment. Today, Ajmeri Bakery is run by the eighth generation of the Sheikh family, with Sheikh Ajizur Sheikh at its helm. This continuity is rare and speaks volumes about the family’s commitment to preserving tradition. Despite the passage of time, the bakery has retained many of its original practices. Wood-fired ovens, once the backbone of early baking, are still used, lending a distinctive flavour and texture to their products. The recipes, too, have been carefully preserved, passed down through generations like heirlooms. Ajmeri Bakery is more than just a place to buy bread. It is a silent witness to some of the most defining moments in India’s history. It stood through the turbulence of Indian Independence, experienced the horrors of the Calcutta Riots, and has seen countless political and social transformations reshape the city. Through all of this, the bakery remained rooted, serving its community through times of uncertainty and change. Its walls, ovens, and counters have quietly observed history unfolding outside, even as life inside continued with the rhythm of daily baking. Even today, Ajmeri Bakery enjoys immense popularity, particularly for its fresh breads, Bakarkhani breads and toast biscuits. These simple items, made using time-tested techniques, have become staples for generations of customers. There is something deeply comforting about the bakery’s offerings; perhaps it is the consistency, or perhaps it is the knowledge that the same recipes have been followed for decades. In an age dominated by industrial food production, Ajmeri Bakery’s handcrafted goods stand out for their authenticity. Despite its rich legacy, Ajmeri Bakery remains relatively unknown beyond local circles.

Very few people outside its immediate community are aware of its long and remarkable history. A simple online search for the “oldest bakery in Calcutta” often highlights Nahoum & Sons instead. While Nahoum’s is undoubtedly iconic and historically significant, this pattern reveals something deeper about how histories are recorded and remembered. Much of the internet and the narratives that dominate it have historically prioritised colonial and elite establishments, often sidelining indigenous, working-class stories. As a result, places like Ajmeri Bakery, rooted in local enterprise and oral history, tend to be overshadowed. This is not just about one bakery being overlooked; it reflects a broader gap in how “desi” histories are documented, archived, and made visible. Recognising Ajmeri Bakery, therefore, is also about reclaiming space for these narratives—stories of resilience, labour, and cultural blending that are just as vital to the identity of Calcutta. Like many heritage establishments, Ajmeri Bakery faces the challenge of balancing tradition with modern demands. Changing regulations, evolving consumer preferences, and competition from contemporary bakeries all pose challenges. Yet, its legacy gives it an edge that few others can replicate. The bakery’s endurance lies in its ability to remain relevant without losing its identity. While the city around it continues to modernise, Ajmeri Bakery remains a link to an older Calcutta, a reminder of a time when food was made with patience, skill, and care. What makes Ajmeri Bakery truly special is not just its age or its recipes, but the emotional connection it holds for generations of Kolkatans. For many, visiting the bakery is an act of nostalgia—a return to simpler times when food was handcrafted and deeply personal.

The story of Jiban Sheikh continues to resonate because it is, at its core, a story of resilience. From being mistreated in a colonial bakery to building his own legacy from scratch, his journey reflects the struggles and triumphs of countless individuals who shaped the city’s cultural fabric. Ajmeri Bakery is not merely one of the oldest bakeries in Calcutta; it is a living archive of the city’s past. Its journey from a cobblestone roadside oven to an eighth-generation family-run establishment is nothing short of extraordinary. Having witnessed independence, communal unrest, and decades of political transformation, it stands today as both a business and a symbol of endurance. Its breads and toast biscuits continue to draw loyal customers, just as they did generations ago.