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Beyond the Dust: The Forgotten Fort of Najafgarh
- Vishal Saini
- Jul 4
- 5 min read
Najafgarh-perhaps many people in Delhi are unaware of this town and rarely realize that it possesses a fort and several historically significant sites. Dotted with grand old havelis, and as one walks through the streets of its main bazaar, it often feels like stepping into the lanes of Old Delhi.
Situated in the south-west of Delhi, it derives its name from the medieval ruler Mirza Najaf Khan. According to historians, he belonged to the Persian Safavid royal family, which was displaced after the invasion of Nader Shah.
Following political upheavals in Iran after the death of Mirza Muhammad, Najaf Khan eventually made his way to India. Mirza Muhsin, the elder brother of Safdar Jang, played a crucial role in securing his release from imprisonment. After the death of Mirza Muqin Khan, Najaf Khan settled in Delhi, where he rose to prominence and was appointed as the Wazir (Prime Minister) under the Mughal emperor Shah Alam II.
During his tenure, Mirza Najaf Khan significantly strengthened the Mughal defence system. In an effort to safeguard Delhi from external assaults such as the British, Sikhs, and Rohillas, as well as other potential threats to the empire, he constructed several forts and defensive structures along the city’s outskirts. Today, the area around it has become densely crowded, and much of the fort has disappeared from view. Only the western gate survives, known as the Delhi Gate, and even this stands in a visibly dilapidated. And it does not fall under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India and is instead managed locally.
Originally, the fort had gates in all four directions, but only the western gate remains standing today; the others were removed after Independence to facilitate road expansion. Built using lakhori bricks-typical of Mughal construction-the surviving structure is a quiet yet powerful reminder of the past. As a resident of the region, I have personally observed that during the monsoon season, the gate often
becomes partially submerged in water, making it difficult for people to access the main market. In recent years, the structure has been covered with tiles, with little attention paid to its conservation. Fruit vendors now occupy the space around it, and countless passersby move through the gate each day, unaware of its historical significance.
It is also remembered for its connection to the events of 1857. As noted by Vikram Singh Rooprai, the Battle of Najafgarh was fought not far from the fort when Indian soldiers attempted to reach it in order to launch a surprise attack on the British encampment in Delhi. To create a diversion, they deliberately took a longer route; however, the British anticipated their plan and arrived at Najafgarh ahead of them. The battle that followed on 25 August 1857 was intense and tragic, resulting in the loss of around 800 Indian soldiers. The conflict took place between forces led by Major Nicholson and troops from Bareilly, Neemuch, and Nasirabad. In its aftermath, five residents of Najafgarh were arrested and publicly hanged at what is now known as Jawahar Chowk. A plaque was later installed at the site, along with a statue of Jawaharlal Nehru.
The region also bears testimony to its contribution during the First World War. Just outside the Delhi Gate stands a memorial that often goes unnoticed by passersby. The inscription reads:
“From the zails of Najafgarh, Isapur, and Palam, 1,805 men went to the Great War (1914-1919), of whom 159 laid down their lives.”
According to Rameen Khan, founder of City Tales, a zail was a revenue or administrative unit consisting of a cluster of 30 to 100 villages. As Shahjahanabad formed the core of Delhi, the surrounding areas were organized into such units. He further notes that there were twelve zails in the Delhi region, including Mehrauli, Badarpur, Nangloi, Bawana, Badli, Shahdara, Kanjhawala, Najafgarh, Palam, Isapur, and Alipur. Today, only a few such plaques survive as reminders of this administrative past.
Currently, the gate is not in good condition, and it is difficult for anyone to recognise its historical character because it has been covered with tiles. This work was carried out by a local politician. Since the tiling was done many years ago, the tiles are now peeling off the surface, revealing the underlying lakhori bricks. A plaque on the façade of the gate mentions the name of the freedom fighter Vaid Krishan Lal.
Furthermore, the heritage structures in the region are rapidly vanishing. Old structures are being demolished and converted into luxury houses, completely altering the character of the area. As a person who spent his childhood around these old structures, I have witnessed how they are gradually torn down, often without the authorities noticing. Typically, the demolition begins with the back portion of a haveli, followed later by the front, creating the illusion that nothing significant has changed. This method allows those responsible to avoid scrutiny and escape penalties for destroying historic structures.
However, the zeal to preserve old structures is evident, as some residents have made efforts to protect their heritage. As a result, old havelis can still be seen while walking through the streets of the region, with their arched gateways, columns, brackets, and old chajjas standing as reminders of the past.
Lastly, Mirza Najaf Khan, who served the Mughal emperor, was a central figure in Indian politics at that time. He strengthened the empire’s military position and constructed fortifications to protect the emperor from external threats. Later, he was appointed as a general and granted estates such as Hisar and Hansi. He also captured the Mughal fort at Agra. Yet, his life was as brief as it was remarkable. He died at the age of just 46 on 6 April 1782 CE. In honour of his service, he was posthumously awarded the title Fiqaru’d-Daula-“the ultimate discriminator of the kingdom” (Standage). His tomb, located in present-day Lodhi Estate, was begun by his daughter, Fatima, but never completed due to financial constraints. Today, the unfinished structure stands as a quiet, poignant reminder of a man who once held immense power, yet whose legacy-like the monument built in his memory-remains partially forgotten.
To conclude, the irony is hard to ignore: instead of safeguarding the region’s fragile heritage, political attention has turned toward renaming it. The MLA of Najafgarh has proposed changing the name of the place to “Nahargarh.” According to the politician, Najafgarh faced several challenges during Mughal rule. She further stated that during the reign of Shah Alam, the region saw significant developments, and during the Revolt of 1857, Raja Nahar Singh fought bravely and incorporated the Najafgarh region into Delhi’s territory . This narrative suggests that elements of communalism may be emerging through the attempt to alter the place’s name.
Bibliography
Rooprai Singh Vikramjit, (2024), Forts, Delhi Heritage top 10, Niyogi Books Private Limited.
Sharma, Y.D.1964. Delhi and its Neighbourhood. New Delhi: Archaeological Society of India.
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